This image shows the milled or underside of the ZCTP. These are very basic and easy to install.
Pictures of each step and text instructions should clearly illustrate how these should be installed.
You should have received a red ZCTP with three 3/4" or 1/2" mounting screws in your package. |
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To start with, unplug the saw!
Use a 1/2" wrench to remove the splitter if it is installed.
You may also choose to take this time to clean out and lube the shims and runners behind the blade.
Some use a standard dinner candle for all lubrication of the interior of the saw. The wax will not interfere
with wood finishes.
Fully lower the blade. Use your standard 10" blade for the initial cut,
or the blade you tend to use with this ZCTP (dado or otherwise). The Z's are pre-notched with a starter kerf
to help prevent belt breakage due to binding.
Check to see that the ZCTP sits flush in its seat. The single hole is toward the operator side. If you
need to shim the ZCTP up to bring it totally flush with the saw table, use paper strips, card stock, tape,
or other thin material between the ZCTP ledge and the ZCTP flange, where the screws go. |
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| Install all 3 screws. This is done to insure proper alignment for your slot every time you use it.
Don't overtighten the screws. They can lift the edges of the plate and it will no longer be flush. Just snug is fine.
They aren't going anywhere. |
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OPTIONAL:
Next install your SMT fence in your sliding miter table. Clamp a sacrificial board on
edge to the miter fence, with the wood over the projected center of the blade path as in the image.
Make sure the plastic end or aluminum fence itself is not in the blade path! There are alternative ways for
clamping, but a c-clamp is quick and easy.
Wear eye protection and a long sleeved shirt. A face shield would be optimal. The cuttings off the plastic
and wood are hot and do not feel good. |
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Make certain that your blade is not binding on the plate. Plug in the saw. Turn on your dust collector if so
equipped, and turn the saw on. Start slowly (!) raising the blade up through the ZCTP. Raise the blade as far as you need to in order
to reach your working height. You don't have to cut all the way up unless you need to install a splitter
(if so, see next section now), or you need the cutting depth of a fully raised blade. You can always cut more slot out later
by raising the blade while it is running. Your ZCTP should now be ready for use with this blade. If you
are using a dado blade for a dado ZCTP, then this ZCTP is custom cut for this width of dado. If you plan to
use another dado width, you may need another ZCTP for a custom fit.
For installing a ZCTP with a splitter assembly, continue to the next sections. The instructions are specific to
Shark products, but work for general splitters. |
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IF USING A SPLITTER WITH ZCTP:
Continue cutting slowly until you top out the saw blade. You can hear when the blade is fully extended.
Some blade washers just bump the underside of the ZCTP.
Turn off and unplug the saw!
Now you can lower the blade. |
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| You can remove your clamp, sacrificial board and SMT fence now, if used for the cut. |
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| Remove and inspect your freshly cut slot in the ZCTP. |
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| Install your splitter to a level height that is just below the top teeth on the blade and clear of
the circumference of the teeth. Insure that the splitter is tracking correctly behind the blade and then
tighten the two mounting nuts. |
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| Install the Big Dog clamp if you have one and then install the steel OEM throat plate. This would be
better than another ZCTP because this won't hold the heated shavings like a ZCTP might. |
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| Now you are going to cut the slot for the splitter in the rear of your new ZCTP. Lower the blade to
the proper height for cutting the ZCTP, roughly 1/8" to 1/2" above the ZCTP thickness. |
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| Align your rip fence with the edge of your OEM throat plate. Lay the new ZCTP on top to insure that
the cut slot is indeed in line with the blade, parallel to your rip fence setting. You may have to adjust
the rip fence slightly. |
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| Install your blade guard. Turn on dust collection and saw. If you don't have a blade guard, then a
feather board or hold down on the rip fence is suggested. You are going to do a stop cut for the splitter.
Cut until it just cuts into the first slot that you cut, so the slot if fully open to the rear of the plate. |
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| Turn off the saw. Pull your ZCTP back out of the blade. Turn off dust collector. Unplug the saw again. |
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| Remove the OEM throat plate and install the new ZCTP. Now you can safely get busy with some seriously
accurate wood working. Think safe and have fun. |
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